Clogged drains can a cause a lot of problems in your home or business. Fixing a clogged drain when it initially happens will prevent the drain from overflowing and ruining your carpet and floors. ProStar Plumbers offers professional and affordable Edmonton drain cleaning and drain repair services to homeowners in the Edmonton area.
Repairing a clogged drain can be difficult to complete on your own. Our team of professionals can help with drain cleaning and drain repairs for your home. We provide timely emergency drain repair in Edmonton to resolve any drainage issues you may be experiencing. Our team will stop any possible damage from occurring and we will remove any debris in your drains. We use our efficient expertise and quality equipment to provide you with the best Edmonton drain cleaning service. Let our team take care of your drainage issues.
Cleaning your own drains can result in damaged pipes or you may not be able to remove everything completely. When it comes to Edmonton drain cleaning and repair services, you can trust ProStar Plumbers to get the job done right. We can service the following types of drains ensuring the job is 100% completed:
It does not matter if your blocked drain is in the bathroom, laundry room or kitchen. Our drain repair experts will take good care of your home and resolve your drainage issues quickly and efficiently. Know that you are in good hands with our emergency drain cleaning and repair services. Our work is guaranteed - we provide great service at an affordable price. Our drain repair experts will ensure that your pipes are running well and that your home will encounter no further issues.
Drain odours emanating from your sinks, tubs or stand up shower stalls are generally caused by built-up residuals of soap, toothpaste, shaving cream and decaying hair and skin (nasty stuff). This build-up occurs in the drain assembly, overflow and the trap itself.
To remedy this you need to:
STEP ONE: Scrub the aforementioned areas with an old toothbrush or bottle brush. This will work better if you can remove the 'p' trap and do it separately.
Thoroughly flush the area with a water and vinegar solution. (There's no shame if you tossed your cookies during the first step).
STEP TWO: Pour a half cup of baking soda into the trap followed by half a cup of white vinegar, place a wet face-cloth / rag over the drain as this mixture will begin to foam up. Allow it to stand 4-6 hours.
Repeat this procedure every couple months or as needed.
ProStar Trenchless Sewer Technology
Do you need to repair or replace the underground sewer and/or water lines? If so, you need to talk to our team of licensed plumbing professionals who are insured in excavation and fully equipped with the latest trenchless technology.
Replacing a water or sewer line running from your home to the street main has historically been a messy, invasive procedure that can ruin carefully planned landscaping and scatter mud & debris around your property. No longer!
Trenchless sewer replacement as used by ProStar Plumbers is a clean, cost-effective method of replacing an old pipe with a new pipe of the same or larger inner diameter.
Trenchless Pipe & Sewer Replacement Provides the Following Advantages:
With the new trenchless method your sewer line and water pipes can be replaced with minimal disturbance to your yard, patio and/or driveway. How does it work? Only two access holes need to be created. One hole is at or in the house/ building to make the connection to the main line, and the other hole is at the property line to make the connection to the city or county sewer line. Trenchless technology works by pulling a hardened steel splitting head through the old pipe. The new pipe is attached to the back of the splitting head and is pulled in as the old pipe is split and expanded. The new pipe follows the path of the old one.
In many ways, lateral trenchless sewer and water line replacement resembles today's state-of-the-art laparoscopic surgery that successfully repairs injuries while leaving minimal scarring. The plumbing experts at ProStar Plumbers will use trenchless technology to complete your line replacement with surgical precision!
Consider your options: The traditional open trench method involves digging a trench and installing the new line. The other option is the trenchless method. Both ways accomplish the same goal, but the modern trenchless method achieves it faster, cheaper and with much less disruption to your property.
A Backwater Valve provides against backflow of sewage into a building.
Our national plumbing code requires that a backwater valve be installed on all new buildings where you have fixtures below grade which are subject to backflow conditions.
There are various types/styles of backwater valves in use today. It is of utmost importance that the correct style of BWV be installed for EACH specific application. Failure to do so could result in catastrophic consequences.
Full port normally open backwater valve
A normally open backwater valve may be installed in your main drain provided certain criteria are met; i.e. distances from existing outlets in order to provide laminar flow.
A normally open backwater valve will provide for the free flow of air in your plumbing system as well as protecting you from sewer backup.
A normally closed backwater valve does not provide for the free flow of air in the plumbing system and may not be installed in the main line, however they may be used in the branch line serving the main drain.
Our certified plumbers can assist you in determining what type of valve you may need for your specific application.
A city permit and a plumbing inspection will be required on all backwater valve installations.
The primary advantage of installing a mainline backwater valve (bwv) is that your entire plumbing system is protected from a municipal sewer backup with just the one mainline valve, instead of having separate bwv on each individual building drain branch.
Because bwv have moving parts the plumbing code dictates they be readily accessible for cleaning, repair and maintenance which requires them to have an access box. Since most branchline bwv serve a bathroom group they are generally placed within the bathroom they serve and this creates problems due to the fact they are usually covered over with tile, lino or other flooring products.
The mainline bwv is installed where the sewer enters the house which is usually a more convenient place for easy access.
How the "Heck" did these roots get in my Sewer?
Tree root systems will travel great distances underground seeking moisture & nutrients and it is not uncommon for certain species of trees to travel 7-8 times their height following water vapours given off by leaking or cracked sewer pipes. (the customers most common re-frain " I can't have roots in my sewer there's not a tree on my property") Once at the source, the roots will penetrate through joints or cracks where they thrive in the moist nutrient rich environment, creating huge root masses that can break pipes apart causing them to collapse.
The most common method of controlling root growth in sewers/drains is to mechanically remove / cut them out with the use of a auger, rooter or snake (same equipment different names) However there are chemicals and foaming agents available which will inhibit root growth for a short period of time. We personally do not use any of the chemical methods but if you must please do not use anything containing copper sulphate or sodium hydroxide as these do have a very negative impact on our environment particularly our water resources.
No matter which methods you choose rest assured your nemesis "the root" will be back.
How do I remove roots "permanently" from my sewer?
Unfortunately the only ways to permanently remove root systems from your sewer are to either re-line your sewer or to replace your sewer. There are advantages and disadvantages to both methods, certain types of older sewer pipes are not good candidates for sewer re-lining.
Your ProStar technical advisor will be happy to discuss which method is best for you.
If your home was built prior to 1998 chances are you do not have a mainline bwv installed in your building drain (you hear the terms building drain and building sewer, they are the same line, but within your house it is called the building drain and once it leaves the house its called the building sewer). The mainline bwv was invented in the city of Edmonton Alberta in 1997 and was approved for use in building drains in Oct 1998 through a change to the national plumbing code. This change allowed for the use of a single normally open bwv and eliminated the need for individual bwv on each building drain branch. However, your home may have been retrofitted with one prior to you purchasing your property. A mainline bwv will be located downstream of the last building drain branch. Usually within 2-4 feet of the foundation wall where the building drain exits the house. There will be a recognizable cleanout cover in the floor. If you cant find where the building drain exits the house you may try locating the main water shutoff valve and water meter. Since the water line and building drain/sewer in most cases are in the same trench. Failing that you can call us at Prostar Plumbing, we have sewer cameras and locating equipment.
This is a frequently asked question, clients will say "my sump barrel is always full and I think I should install a larger pump in order to evacuate all of the water."
My response is that bigger is not necessarily better. In most cases when talking about size in regards to sump pumps it is not the physical size of the pump, but rather the horsepower rating.
Typically a 1/3 hp pump is by far the most common in use but do come in varying sizes from ¼, Up to 1 hp for residential use. Your sump pump should be sized for its particular application. Installing a larger sump pump will definitely remove the groundwater quicker but be aware that a sump pump draws a lot of amperage when started and this in turn creates heat, allowing your pump to run for a period of time will help to cool it down.
Cycling on/off will cause a premature sump pump failure which may lead to a flooded basement.
I don’t think one is really better than the other it’s the application that’s important in determining which one to choose.
Submersible sump pumps as their name implies are submersed in the sump barrel, the motor is Hermetically sealed and is cooled by the surrounding water. They generally use a tethered float switch to activate the pump although different switch styles are available. A larger sump barrel is required when using a tethered float as it must be allowed to float unobstructed.
Pedestal style sump pumps can be installed in a more confined space with smaller sump barrels due to the float rising vertically on a rod. The motor is not submersed in the water rather it is installed on the top of the pump and requires the ambient air for cooling.
In most cases discharge water from the sump pump is pumped outside the house either into a hose/pipe and directed away or onto a splash pad.
It is possible in some cases to get a relaxation of the bylaw to allow sump discharge to be piped directly into the sewer but each case is judged individually and it is up to the jurisdiction. NEVER DO THIS WITHOUT PROPER AUTHORITY.
Groundwater entering the sanitary sewer system during a storm can cause it to be overloaded leading to catastrophic sewer backups.
Proper grading of the landscaping around your home to direct the discharge away from the foundation is generally sufficient.